After Adrià: Aduriz and the Quest for Kitchen Values

Foods from Spain  New York, 2001, (1,335 words; adapted and updated 2013)
Version de langue française  

3/cont. 

And, like the other creators - this seems to me the heart of the matter - she dives into old Spanish culture and gives it the shock of the new.

Andoni Aduriz / ‘In the end, what we need to keep alive is the interest, hopes and strength generated by cooking at the moment ... we need to spread a sense of values.’

Where might the future lie for Spanish cooks?

A finger in the wind: is it a coincidence that so many Spanish creative figures have won their first, or greatest, critical acclaim abroad? Carme Ruscalleda, the Catalan chef, and Cristina García Rodero are good examples of that. Or is it a coincidence they have looked for dialogue, debate and collaboration to France or Brazil or China, the United States or Latin America? That, surely, will continue.

MUGARITZ: BEYOND TECHNIQUE TO VALUES

Among the people I met on two whistle-stop tours interviewing young chefs for this article I was particularly struck by Andoni Aduriz, who cooks in the countryside in his restaurant Mugaritz, just outside San Sebastian, in the Basque Country. It was not just his cooking, but everything around it, offbeat and self-critical, which was intriguing.

I phoned him to ask him to reflect on the future. He asked for a day’s thinking time and replied in a midnight email.

Here's an extract.

"In the end, what we need to keep alive is the interest, hopes and strength generated by cooking at the moment. But I think in general cooking still needs a small revolution. We need to spread a sense of values. I see values as more important than people. We need to ask ourselves questions. In truth, I think that’s hardly begun."

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