Food: Our Food, Our World

After Adrià: Aduriz and the Quest for Kitchen Values

Foods from Spain
New York, 2001, (1,335 words; adapted and updated 2013)
Version de langue française

This article was commissioned after the New York Times made a worldwide splash with a cover feature on Ferran Adrià’s cooking. I asked Andoni Aduriz, a chef for whom I have great admiration, what he thought the future held. His reply was prophetic. At the end of the article is an update. Thanks to José Guerra.

Also see: Basque Cooking / Fresh: New Spanish Chefs / What’s Cooking in the Big Orange


Art in Such Good Taste: Escribà the Chocolate Sculptor

The Guardian
London, 1991, 1,300 words; extracts

I met Escribà by chance while I was doing a travel piece for Insight Guides. His talent was blinding and I returned to Barcelona to interview him for this piece. Ferran Adrià was to call him "the first avant-garde figure in modern Spanish cookery". Today, by the way, his shop still ticks over as a wonderful family business run by his three sons.

Also see: La Duquesita, The Sweet Life / Chocolateros, Spain´s Chocolate Maestros


Basque Cooking: If Ours Were the Worst of All Lives

Journal of the International Wine & Food Society
London, 1988 (1,900 words; extracts)
Versión en español | Version de langue française | Japanese version

In the late 1980s I used to visit San Sebastian (Donostia) with a Basque friend whose family had a restaurant. The food culture astonished me, not just for the quality, but for the way it was nurtured. Today, I still see Basque cooking as a model for what can be achieved at every level of a food culture if there is collective commitment.

Also see: All At The Same Table / Away From It All


Cultivating Cuisine: Learning to Cook

Sunday Telegraph Magazine
London, 1984-2006, 2,000 words; extracts

Elisabeth Russell taught me to cook. While we, the students, chopped and sliced and made béchamel, she would criticise, or praise, but above all talk about food. Her ideas have influenced not only what I cook but also what I write about food.


Last of the Independents: Lejanos del mundanal ruido

Last of The Independents
London, 2014, 1,200 words
English version (external site) | Version de langue française

La familia Ochando de El Asador de Teodomiro enciende sus hornos de asar con jara, lo que le confiere ese especial y perfumado aroma a su cabrito asado, a sus pollos, a sus pimientos rojos y a sus puddings. Yo conocí a los Ochandos en el 2009, cinco años antes de que surgió el momento y sitio adecuado por un artículo: una serie, Last of the Independents (El Último de los Independientes), creada en 2014 por el blog Gareth Jones Food. Aquí está el texto en castellano, traducido por Oskar Lanziego.

Lea el artículo original en inglés ('So Far From the Madding Crowd') en:

Galería fotográfica: fotos gracias a

Translated by Oskar Lanziego


Olive Oil: The Quest for Perfection

Spain Gourmetour
Madrid, 2005, 1,800 words; adapted extracts

Commissioned as a brief history of Spanish olive oil since 1985, this piece grew into a homage to the olive-oil making community in Spain.

Also see: The New Varietals / Olive Oil: Art, Craft, Science / The Gold And Green Mosaic


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