Food: Our Food, Our World

Andoni Luis Aduriz: Searching for Kitchen Values

Foods from Spain
New York, 2001, (1,335 words; adapted and updated 2013)
Version de langue française

This article was commissioned following a polemical New York Times’ cover feature on Ferran Adrià’s cooking.

I asked Andoni Aduriz, a chef for whom I have great admiration, what he thought the future held. His reply was prophetic. At the end of the article is an update. Thanks to José Guerra.

Also see: Basque Cooking / Fresh: New Spanish Chefs / What’s Cooking in the Big Orange


Basque Cooking: If Ours Were the Worst of All Lives

Journal of the International Wine & Food Society
London, 1988 (1,900 words; extracts)
Versión en español | Version de langue française | Japanese version

In the late 1980s I used to visit San Sebastian (Donostia) with a Basque friend whose family had a restaurant. The food culture astonished me, not just for the quality, but for the way it was nurtured. Today, I still see Basque cooking as a model for what can be achieved at every level of a food culture if there is collective commitment.

Also see: All At The Same Table / Away From It All


Cultivating Cuisine: Learning to Cook

Sunday Telegraph Magazine
London, 1984-2006, 2,000 words; extracts

Elisabeth Russell taught me to cook. While we, the students, chopped and sliced and made béchamel, she would criticise, or praise, but above all talk about food. Her ideas have influenced not only what I cook but also what I write about food.


Last of the Independents: Lejanos del mundanal ruido

Last of The Independents
London, 2014, 1,200 words
English version (external site) | Version de langue française

La familia Ochando de El Asador de Teodomiro enciende sus hornos de asar con jara, lo que le confiere ese especial y perfumado aroma a su cabrito asado, a sus pollos, a sus pimientos rojos y a sus puddings. Yo conocí a los Ochandos en el 2009, cinco años antes de que surgió el momento y sitio adecuado por un artículo: una serie, Last of the Independents (El Último de los Independientes), creada en 2014 por el blog Gareth Jones Food. Aquí está el texto en castellano, traducido por Oskar Lanziego.

Lea el artículo original en inglés ('So Far From the Madding Crowd') en:

Galería fotográfica: fotos gracias a

Translated by Oskar Lanziego


Olive Oil: The Quest for Perfection

Spain Gourmetour
Madrid, 2005, 1,800 words; adapted extracts

Commissioned as a brief history of Spanish olive oil since 1985, this piece grew into a homage to the olive-oil making community in Spain.

Also see: The New Varietals / Olive Oil: Art, Craft, Science / The Gold And Green Mosaic


On Simplicity

El País
Madrid, November 2017, 780 words

In 2017 I was commissioned by El Pais to contribute to "Carta Blanca", a long-standing weekly column in which each author sends a message to anyone they choose. My carta or message, published in Spanish, connected back to my time living in Vanuatu where marine life was an everyday part of existence. So, too, for visitors, was island-learning that shed new perspectives on European views of life. I decided to dedicate my carta to Sempel, a fisherman who unknowingly left a lasting impression on my work. In 2019 I was delighted when Madrid Fusion picked the subject of my article as a focus for a 2020 Congress while shifting its context to a food-business perspective. At the end of the article I've suggested some recommended listening, a CD of wonderful ni-Vanuatu music.


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